 Area : 11.973 km²
Population : 3.370.866 (2000)
Traffic Code : 35
İzmir is the third biggest city in Turkey, with a population of around 2.5 million, the second biggest port after Istanbul, and a good transport hub. Once the ancient city of Smyrna, it is now a modern, developed, and busy commercial centre, set around a huge bay and surrounded by mountains and was. The broad boulevards, glass-fronted buildings and modern shopping centres are dotted with traditional red-tiled roofs, the 18th century market, and old mosques and churches, although the city has an atmosphere more of Mediterranean Europe than traditional Turkey.
The climate is comfortable, with a relatively mild summer due to the refreshing breeze from the Aegean. The long attractive palm-fringed promenade, Birince Kordon, which stretches the entire length of the city up to the Alsancak Ferry Terminal, is a popular spot for evening walks, and there are many cafes along the waterfront. Izmir has a good selection of culture and entertainment, from the Archaeological and Ethnographic Museums, to the Izmir State Opera and Ballet and Izmir State Symphony Orchestra, to the many bars and clubs. The cosmopolitan and lively city gets even busier during the International Izmir Festival (mid-June to mid-July) with music and dance, with performances also in nearby Cesme and Ephesus.
Districts : Balcova, Cigli, Gaziemir, Güzelbahçe, Karsiyaka, Konak, Aliaga, Bayindir, Bayrakli, Bergama, Beydag, Bornova, Buca, Cesme, Dikili, Foca, Karabağlar, Karaburun, Kemalpasa, Kinik, Kiraz, Menderes, Menemen, Narlıdere, Odemis, Seferihisar, Selcuk, Tire, Torbalı and Urla.
Selçuk
Bergama
Çeşme
Foça
Aliağa: Aliağa, which is 60 km. north of İzmir, have signes of İzmir and Bergama civilizations. 4 of the 12 cities, composing the biggest and most important ones among Aiol cities, whose number is exceeding 30 at Aegean coasts, are within Aigaia, Kyme, Myrna and Gryneion province territories.
Dikili: Dikili is a pretty province and popular summer resort, around 120km north of Izmir. Candarli is nearby, and the area is full of natural beauty as well as historical interest. There is a crater lake in Medivenli village, and pine groves and ancient caverns in Demirtas and Delitas. The area is also famous for its hot springs, which can be found in Nebiler, Bademli and Kocaoba villages. The port at Dikili is large enough for three passenger ships, and is a good transport connection.
Seferihisar: Teos antic city at Sığacık region, Karaköse ruins at Doğanbey - Gerenalanı region, former settlement area constructed within castle and castle, constructed by Ottomans at Sığacık, monumental structures of Seljukian and Ottoman period at province center of the province, whose settlement history reaches till 1000 B. C., are composing the archeological and historical source potential of the region. Seferihisar has beautiful beaches and bays with its 27 km. Coastal band.
Menderes: Menderes province, which draws attention with its satsuma, beautiful bays and historical values, is 20 km. away from İzmir. Lebedos Antic City is at west of province at Ürkmez region. Ruins of Kolophon, Klaros, Notion and Lebedos Antic Cities, which are on Menderes - Seljukian road as adjacent to each other, are composing the important archeological sources of the province. Gümüldür borough is the producer region of Satsuma, which is a world famous kind of tangerine. Özdere is one of the nine big tourism regions of Aegean Region, and it is a tourism borough where amateur fishermen can fish besides its clear sea and coast. Various colored and shaped beads which are produced in natives at Görece Village of Menderes, are drawing attention of national and international tourists.
Karaburun: Karaburun is at the northern point of the Urla Peninsula, and its northern and western coasts have beautiful bays surrounding the Izmir bay. There were settlements in this area which date back to the Stone Age, and excavations have indicated it was a developed cultural centre during the Hittite period, then a trading centre during the Aiol, Lydia and Roman civilisations. It is now the newest suburb of Izmir, and has a couple of small guest houses and fish restaurants. Its most dramatic feature is the setting, with villages and orchards clinging to the steep rock face. There is a bus service in the area, although private vehicles offer more possibilities for exploring.
Urla: Urla is in the middle of the peninsula and holds all the characteristics of the Aegean. It lies 38km west of Izmir and used to be a cultural centre with remains unearthed dating back to the Hitties. It was originally the site of the Ionian city of Clazomenae, with probably the oldest regularly used port in the world. Pieces of art and sculpture found during excavations are now exhibited in the Louvre, Athens National Museum and Izmir Archaeology Museum.
Torbalı: An ancient Ionian city, famous for its wines and religious centre, has three marble alters devoted to the Roman Emperor August and his foster child Germanikys, in an ancient theatre which dominates the valley. Pieces of art found during excavations are exhibited in Izmir and Ephesus museums. The town has the remains of an old port and a few holiday complexes, and is set attractively against a pine forest.
Ödemiş: The north of Odemis, which is 113km southeast of Izmir, are the ruins of Hypaiapa. The historical importance of the region began with Birgi, west of Odemis, which was the capital during the Aydinogullari period and contained outstanding examples of Seljuk and Ottoman architecture. Birgi has been on the World Cultural Heritage list since 1994, and points of interest here include Cakiraga Mansion, Imam-i Birgivi Medrese and Sultan Sah Mausoleum.
Tire: One of the largest towns in the area, Tire is 82km southeast of Izmir and lies at the foot of the Aydin Mountains. Its long cultural heritage includes periods under the Hittites, Frygians, Lydians, Persians, Romans and Byzantines, and developed its strong links with the economy during the Ottoman period. The town has an attractive old quarter with many impressive examples of Islamic architecture, and a lively Tuesday market influenced by the gypsy population in the surrounding villages.
Kemalpaşa: The historical background of Kemalpasa, which lies 29km west of Izmir, dates back to 1300 BC. It was host to the Akkads, Hitties, Seljuk and Ottoman civilisations, and was a resort between the Art and Ion cities during Roman and Byzantine times. The only remains from the Hittites in the Aegean region is the Karabel relief, which is in the province. Previously known in ancient times as Nymphaion, the town lies at the foot of Nif mountain at 200m altitude, and is best known for its cherries and pine forests.
How to Get
By Road : Most long distance buses come into the huge bus station, around 8km northeast of the city centre, and there are public buses and taxis to and from the city. Izmir is connected to every part of the country, with major destinations having a service at least every hour. These include: Istanbul (10 hours), Ankara (9 hours), Antalya (9 hours), Bursa (7 hours), Marmaris (6 hours), Bodrum (4 hours) and Konya (8 hours).
From Uckuyular bus station, 7km southwest of Konak, there are regular services to Cesme (90 mins) and Seferihisar (1 hour).
By Rail : Izmir has two railway stations: Basmane in the city centre is the major terminal for intercity trains, and Alsancak in the north is mainly a commuter and local route.
The main intercity services include: Ankara (Mavi Tren is the fastest at 14 hours), Denizli (3 express trains daily, 5-6 hours) and Isparta (9 hours). Trains for Istanbul connect with a ferry at Bandirma.
By Air : Adnan Menderes Airport, 16km south of the city centre, it has several daily flights to Istanbul, Ankara and Antalya. There are also regular flights from many European cities. Airport buses go to and from the city centre, and there are hourly trains to Alsancak Station.
Where to Visit
Kemeraltı Bazaar : The big bazaar in the city centre stretches from the coast road to the Konak area, and is a major shopping centre with a vast array of goods inside. It combines modern businesses, shops and cafes, with antiques, dried fruit, household and leather goods in old alleyways with vaults and domes. Inside the bazaar, there is one of the most interesting structures of Izmir: Kizlaragasi Hani is an Ottoman caravanserai inside the Halim Aga Bazaar and was completed in 1745. This covered market sells hand-made products, carpets, leather and souvenirs. There are many entrances to the markets, from Basmane, Konak and Anafartalar. Konak is one of the oldest areas of the city, with most of the buildings that survived the great fire, although the traditional areas are gradually being modernised. This is the location of the city’s landmark, the Saat Kulesi (Ottoman clock tower) decorated with tiles.  Asansör (Elevator) : The elevator was constructed by Jewish businessman Nesim Levi in 1907, in order to make life easier for the local residents to go to their mansions on the top of the hill. These days tourists use it to admire the views of the old streets and houses of Mithatpasa. Located in the heart of Izmir’s old Jewish quarter, it is housed in a 50m-high brick tower and after refurbishment in 1992 it now contains a café on the top floor, and the original hydraulics are exhibited on the ground floor. In its heyday in the 1930s, it also contained a theatre, cinema, refreshment stall and photographer’s shop. Kültürpark : The big Kulturpark in the city centre is one of the densest green areas in Izmir, covering 30 hectares. There is a zoo, artificial lake, parachute tower, open-air theatre and a collection of bars and cafes. This has been the venue of the International Izmir Fair every August since 1936. Botanic Garden : One of the best Botanical Gardens of Turkey, is in the Ege University field. There are around 3000 species of plants from the tropical regions to the Alps, many of which are kept under artificial conditions. The arboretum has hundreds of species of trees and bushes, and the herbarium centre contains dried plant samples that are preserved for the use of scientific research.
İzmir Archeology Museum
Izmir, the pearl of the Aegean, which has a rich and long history of 8.500 years, witnessed many mighty civilizations from Hittites to Ionians, Lydians to Persians, Hellenes to Romans and Byzantines to Ottomans and traces of which are spread all around in the province of Izmir.
With its Archeological Museum that houses a marvelous collection of antiquities, Izmir, known as “Smyrna” in ancient times, and whose name is said to have derived from a beautiful queen of Amazons, the legendary female warriors, offers an enjoyable and fascinating journey to the visitors through the Aegean history and art.
Considered to be one of the first museums built in Western Anatolia, Izmir Archeology Museum is categorized as a regional museum rather than a local museum due to the strikingly beautiful works of art it displays.
Situated at Konak, the heart of the city, the museum can be reached easily by walking up from the Konak Square. Above the municipal bus station a little curving service path amongst the high trees leads the visitors to the gate of the Izmir Archeology Museum.
HISTORY OF MUSEUM
The archaeology museum was established in 1924 in an abandoned Church called Ayavukla in the Basmane district of Izmir and opened to the public in 1927 after the work collection activities of three years.
The archaeology museum was moved to the National Education Pavilion in the Culture Park that was converted into a museum in 1951. However, a new and larger museum was required due to excessive and outstanding artifacts brought from Izmir, ancient Smyrna, and the neighboring cities of antiquity. A new museum was established on an area of 5000 m² in Bahribaba Park in Konak and opened to the public in 1984.
The works of art yielded by excavations carried out in various parts of the region, such as Bayraklı (ancient Smyrna), Ephesus, Pergamon, Miletus, Aphrodisias, Clazomenae, Teos, Iasos and so on are exhibited in this museum and in the back and front gardens and illuminate the history of the western part of Anatolia.
The three-storey Izmir Archeology Museum consists of two exhibition floors, an open-air exhibition area, laboratories, a storage room where the objects are classified and protected, repair shops, a conference hall and administrative offices.
EXHIBITION HALLS
GROUND FLOOR-ENTRANCE HALL
In the center of the entrance hall a bird’s eye view of a mosaic that lies on the basement can be seen from the balustraded upper floor. The mosaic that has a design of animals and plants was brought from Kadifekale and made of pebbles and glass.
Just at the entrance of the Hall of the Stone Works stands an informative map of Turkey indicating the civilizations flourished in Anatolia throughout history that may be of help to the visitors to understand the historic evolution of the country and to appreciate the artifacts presented in the museum.
GROUND FLOOR- HALL OF STONE WORKS
Marble works such as large marble statues, busts, portraits and masks are displayed on the middle floor, which is the entrance floor of the museum. The charming stone works belong to Hellenistic (330-30 B.C.) and Roman (30 B.C. - A.D.395) Periods. The statuettes made of marble are also displayed in classifications in four showcases on this floor.
A glass case at the entrance of the “Hall of Stone Works” contains various figures of Cybele, the Anatolian mother goddess who symbolized fertility. The origin of Cybele went far back into prehistoric times and later she evolved into Artemis. There are also votive steles presented by worshippers in veneration of different deities.
Among the most impressive statues displayed in this hall are statute of a priest from Halicarnassos (Roman Period), statute of two girls from Metropolis-Torbalı (Hellenistic Period), statute of Antinous as Androclos, legendary founder of Ephesus, (Roman Period) and the 2nd century A.D statue of an imperial priest wearing a diadem (forehead ornament) and a ring on his left hand finger from Ephesus.
THE UPPER FLOOR- EKREM AKURGAL HALL OF CERAMIC WORKS
The numerous archeological items ranged from Prehistoric Ages to the Byzantine Period are displayed in chronological order in the Hall of Ceramics Works that was dedicated to Prof.Dr. Ekrem Akurgal (1911-2002) who was one of the most celebrated archeologists of Turkey, and give a vivid picture of life through artifacts. Information panels illustrated with photographs give clear accounts of the customs and art of each period as well.
Ceramic works were produced not only for daily uses but also as works of art. Especially the ceramics that were made in the 7th, 6th and 5th centuries B.C. and decorated with various figures reflect the social lives, beliefs, customs, culinary cultures and the arts of the societies.
In this hall numerous objects from the Prehistoric Ages (Neolithic, Chalcolithic and Bronze Ages) to the Byzantine Period are exhibited. Among these collections are the ceramics of Prehistoric Ages, the ceramics of Mycenaean period, Geometric ceramics, Corinthian ceramics, Orientalizing period ceramics, Attica ceramics, Hellenistic ceramics, Roman and Byzantine ceramics.
The works of Prehistoric Period come from Baklatepe, Kocabaştepe (Tahtalı Dam Salvage excavations), Panaztepe (Menemen), Ulucakhöyük (Kemalpaşa) and Limantepe (Urla) moulds. The works of art belonging to other periods are from Klazomenai (Urla), Klaros (Ahmetbeyli), Erythrai (Ildırı), Teos (Sığacık), Pitane (Çandarlı), Gryneion, Myrina, Kyme (Aliağa), Iasos (Kıyıkışlacık-Milas).
The Western Anatolian ceramics of Protogeometric and Geometric Period, the red and black figured western Anatolian vases of Archaic Periods, samples of Mycenaean pottery, hydrias of Hellenistic Period, funeral urns containing the ashes of the deceased together with grave goods, various terra-cotta and glass vases, masks and figurines are some of the outstanding artifacts of Hall of Ceramic Works.
Plenty of important archeological findings from Bayraklı (ancient Smyrna) can also be seen in this hall including those from the Temple of Athena.
A strikingly beautiful Attic Lebes gamikos or marriage bowl unearthed in Bayraklı has black-figured decoration that depicts the marriage ceremonies of King Menelaus and beautiful Helen of Troy. This bowl is thought to be decorated by Sophilos, the first black figure artist who signed his works with his real name.
Gryneion (Hacıömerli) was another oracular centre in the region, and finds from excavations carried out at the necropolis here over recent years are exhibited. Excavations carried out by Professor Ekrem Akurgal at nearby Pitane (Çandarlı) have revealed not only burial findings, but also vases with eastern style decoration, characterized by motifs such as sphinxes, lions, palmets and lotus plants.
The section of terracotta sarcophagi of the Clazomenaean type is also noteworthy. The sarcophagi made in Clazomenae, a historical town near-İskele quarter of Urla town, 35 kms.west of İzmir, are remarkable with their colored geometric designs.
In the museum, the section of the bronze works is of special importance. As the bronze works were melted and reused again and again during the course of time, only a few of works have survived up to the present. A bronze statue of an athlete belonging to Late Hellenistic Period that was discovered off the ancient city of Kyme and the bronze bust of Demeter discovered by the sponge fishermen from the depths of the Aegean Sea off Bodrum (ancient Halicarnassos) are among the most noteworthy objects of the museum.
It is known that the winners of the Olympic Games were honored by their statues in the Ancient Greek and Aegean world. This bronze sculpture is supposed to describe an athlete, a winner of the javelin throwing games.
THE TREASURY HALL
In the Treasury Hall situated on the same floor with the Hall of Ceramic Works the electron, golden, silver, bronze and copper coins, glass works including perfume bottles and jewelries belonging to Archaic, Classical, Hellenistic, Roman, Byzantine and Islamic periods, the golden mouth and eye bands, diadems, adornments made of gold, silver, precious and semi precious stones belonging to Hellenistic and Roman periods are exhibited.
EXHIBITION IN THE GARDEN
A rich selection of artifacts belonging to different periods such as sarcophagi, steles, statues, long friezes, phalluses, inscriptions and some capitals of various orders are arranged around the gardens as impromptu seating. The long frieze decorated with reliefs of garlands of fruit has many male and female heads in different types. The frieze brought from Aphrodisias dates back to 2nd century A.D. is worth visiting.
İzmir Museum Of History And Art
Located in Kültürpark on an area of 13 thousand 320 square meters in total, 3 thousand 820 square meters of which is covered and 9 thousand 500 square meters of which is open, İzmir Museum of History and Art is composed of three different buildings and three different sections. In the entrance, the stone works are displayed in the building on the right, the ceramic works are displayed in the building in the middle and the precious belongings are displayed in the building on the left.
SECTION OF STONE WORKS
In the “Section of Stone Works”, which has two floors, the sculpturing works of the Archaic, Classical, Hellenistic and Roman Periods and the plastic works of architecture are exhibited.
THE ARCHAIC PERIOD (900-700 B.C.)
Firstly, the stone works of the Archaic Period (900-700 B.C.) welcome us in the exhibition on the right side of the section. In this period, the art of sculpture in the Western Anatolia met large sculptures especially as a result of the relations with Egypt. As a result of this influence, larger sculptures were created since the mids of the 7th century B.C.
The sculpture samples of the Period are generally large marble sculptures erected as a votive offering or as stele for the sacred sites. The sculptures are described from the front as standing in a dull way. The hands are on both sides, mostly sticking to the body and the left leg is positioned forward. There is a slight smile on the mouth.
The sculptures of Kuros (the young man) are described as one leg is forward, the arms extend toughly downwards and the hands are in the position of fist. Sticking to the body, the arms begin to separate from the body in time and gain action. Although the sculptures were inspired from the Egyptian ones, there isn't any column for supporting as there are in the Egyptian examples and the male sculptures are not described as dressed.
Unlike the sculptures of Kuros, all of the sculptures of Kore (the young girl), which are observed throughout the Archaic Period, are defined as dressed. In the early times, the clothes were sticking to the body and they were smooth. However, in time, they were harmonized with the body. Claros (Ahmetbeyli) and Erythrai (Ildırı-Çeşme) can be regarded as two of the important centers of the art of sculpture of the Archaic Period in the Western Anatolia.
THE CLASSICAL PERIOD (490-330 B.C.)
Seen during the Archaic Period, the sculptures of Kuros and Kore are replaced by the sculptures of sportsmen, having gained victories, and descriptions of gods and goddesses in this period. The sculptures of this period have three-dimensional appearances.
The sculptors of the Classical Period began to create bronze sculptures as well. Since bronze is a reusable material, most of the sculptures of this period unfortunately have not survived up to now. Information about how these sculptures look like can be provided from the marble copies of the Roman Period. The only sculpture in the museum dating back to this period is the Sculpture of Homeros located in Claros.
THE HELLENISTIC PERIOD (330-30 B.C.)
After the sculptures of the Archaic Period, displayed in the right corridor in the Section of Stone Works, the sculpturing works of the Hellenistic Period welcome us.
The portraits of the characters were developed during the Hellenistic Period. The most famous artist of the period is Lysippos. The artist described people in his bronze sculptures not in the way as they were, but as in the way they appeared to him. Facial expressions such as exaggerated behavior, sorrow and grief, which were the most important features of the period, can be seen on the works.
The Pergamon School of Sculpture plays an important role in sculptures of this period. The war between the gods and the giants are described on the frieze of the Altar of Zeus in Bergama. A dramatic atmosphere is observed on the reliefs where violence, exaggerated behaviour and pathetic expressions on the face are seen.
THE ROMAN PERIOD (30 B.C. - 395 A.D.)
It is not possible to say that the Roman people were as creative as the Greek people in the art of sculpture. The Roman people collected the Greek works, which had been created before them, brought them to their country, copied them and duplicated them. These copies give information about the original sculptures which have not survived up to now.
The Roman people created original works in the branches of portrait and relief in plastic arts and they applied a realistic style instead of idealism in the Greek portraits. The influence of the provinces is observed clearly on all branches of the Roman Art. The most important and the richest one is the Province of Asia (Anatolia). Smyrna, Ephesos, Pergamon and Aphrodisias can be regarded as the main centers of the Roman art of sculpture in Anatolia.
The sculpture group of Demeter, Poseidon and Artemis, which has been revealed in Agora, is worth seeing.
BURIAL HALL
On the left side of the corridor is the U-shaped burial hall where various steles (tombstones) with reliefs and two tombs (grave) of the Hellenistic and the Roman periods are displayed.
Most of the works being displayed are the works created during the Roman Period.
SECTION OF CERAMIC WORKS
Upon entering the section of ceramics, which has two floors, boards giving information about the prehistorical and the classical periods welcome us. The works in this section are not displayed according to a chronological order; the ceramic works are placed in different showcases according to where they have been excavated. It is possible to see the most beautiful examples of the ceramic works from the Prehistorical Period to the end of the Byzantine Period in İzmir Museum of History and Art.
On our tour which we have begun from the left section, it is possible to see firstly the outstanding works brought from Baklatepe, Limantepe, Kocabaştepe and Panaztepe, which were the Prehistorical settlements in the vicinity of İzmir. There are also various ceramic works brought from Phocaia (Foça), Iasos (Güllük), Klazomenai (Urla), Kyme (Aliağa), Smyrna (İzmir) and Smyrna Agora.
In the remaining part of the section, there is a model of a Greek type commercial ship used commonly on the Aegean Sea during 700-600 B.C., made smaller at the rate of 1/4, together with the amphora it was carrying. The vessel had one mast and rectangular sails and it could proceed either with sails or only with paddles if desired.
While ascending the second floor of the section of ceramic works, on both sides, there are various stone, bony and fired clay works belonging to Ulucakhöyük (Ulucak Mound) which is again one of the Prehistorical settlements of İzmir.
On the second floor of the section of ceramic works, one can see the rare and precious works brought from Smyrna (Bayraklı Mound), which is the ancient settlement of the city of İzmir. The most ancient ceramic pieces brought from Bayraklı Mound date back to the beginnings of 3 thousand B.C. Distinguished Professor Ekrem Akurgal found out ten settlement layers which he says that date back 11th-4th centuries B.C. on the mound. Ceramic works have been excavated in all the settlements beginning from the Protogeometric Period to the 4th century B.C.
SECTION OF PRECIOUS WORKS
COINS
The coins are displayed chronologically in this section. Lydian, Teos, Caria, Ephesus, Persian, Lykian and Athens city coins of the Archaic Period (700-480 B.C.) and Lampsakos, Thebes (Boetia), Kelandaris, Rhodes, Aspendos, Milet, Phocaea and Western Anatolian electron coins of the Classical Period are exhibited in the first of the showcases of coins.
Later, they are followed by the coins of Alexander the Great, Philippus II, Side, Phaselis, Sinope, Amisos, Pandikapion (Thrace), Tarsus and Rhodes of the Hellenistic Period (300-30 B.C.) and coins belonging to the Hellenistic Kingdoms, Kingdoms of Macedonia, Seleukos, Pergamon, Thrace and Bithynia and the Treasure of Kistaphores and Pitane (Çandarlı) (58 silver coins). It is possible to see in the following showcases the city coins of the Western Anatolia, the city coins in the regions of Troas, Mysia, Aeolis, Ionia, Lydia, Bithynia and Caria and the Treasure of Antiochus II (299 bronze coins dating back to 225 B.C.), the Treasure Group of Klaros Excavations (the coins of the city of Kolophon of the 2nd century B.C.), Group of Coins of the City of İzmir (29 Bronze Coins dating back to the 2nd century B.C.), and the Treasure of Samsun Amissos (391 Bronze Coins dating back to the 2nd quarter of the 1st century B.C.). The Roman Republican coins, the coins of the Roman Empire, the coins of the City of Rome and the group of treasures belonging to Constantinus I and his family (3159 bronze coins dating back to 307-337 A.D.) are exhibited in the following showcase. In the other showcase of coins, there are silver, bronze and golden coins of the Byzantine period and Venetian coins.
Two showcases are allocated for the coins of the Islamic Period in our section. The Coins of the Ottoman Period, the Ottoman Medals, the Ottoman-Style Copper Coins, Balıkesir Ottoman Treasure (silver coins belonging to the reign of Selim I ( the Stern)) can be seen in our first showcase. The coins of the Early Islamic Period, the İlhanlı Period, the coins of the Anatolian Seljuks and the coins of the Principalities are located in the other showcase.
Coins used during the ancient times and the coins of the Islamic period, the treasure room, bronze, glass and fired clay works are displayed in the section of precious works which is another section located in the museum.
JEWELLERY DURING ANCIENT TIMES
Jeweleries were first used for religious purposes. However, later on, they were used in order to be admired, to appear beautiful and they became the indication of being wealthy. While the first jeweleries were made of bones, ivory and stones, golden, silver and electron jeweleries became more popular as a result of the developments in mine art.
Adornments made of gold, silver and precious stones, glass works and coins belonging to the Archaic; Hellenistic, Roman and Byzantine periods are displayed in the Section of Precious Works.
BRONZE WORKS
It is possible to see beautiful and outstanding examples of bronze works at our department. For example; the buckle dating back to the end of the 7th century B.C. of the Urartian Period, medical and cosmetic instruments and mirrors, points of arrow, a perfume bottle, furniture pieces, oil lamps and various figurines belonging to the Roman Period, the trifoild pitcher belonging to the Hellenistic Period and knife, dagger and points of lance belonging to the Late Bronze Age and etc.
OIL LAMPS AND FIGURINES
On our tour, which we have begun from the left part in our section, the showcases, where oil lamps and figurines are located, welcome us after the showcases of glass works. In the first showcase are the oil lamps, votive oil lamps and perfume bottles belonging to various periods. And there are sitting figurines of Cybele belonging to the Archaic and the Classical periods; the figurines of priest belonging to the Classical Period; the figurines of Eros, sitting figurines of Aphrodite, male figurines belonging to the Roman Period and female figurines belonging to the Hellenistic and Roman Periods and masks, Rhytons and figurines of animals belonging to the Archaic and the Roman Periods.
GLASS WORKS
It is possible to see various works such as glass carafe, perfume bottle, bowl, stirring bar, bracelet and plate on the first two showcases in the section on the left side.
The Ethnography Museum
The Ethnography Museum is one of the most informative tourist attractions in Izmir and full of relics of the glorious past of the city. Situated just next to the Archeology Museum of Izmir, the museum was built on a sloped terrace in neoclassical style in 1831. This fine old stone building, known to be used as St. Roch Hospital to treat the people who suffered from plague, was converted into a care house for poor Christian families and orphans after being repaired by the French in 1845.
Once İzmir’s Sanitation Institution and Department of Public Health, the building was restored between the years of 1985-1988 by the Ministry of Culture and Tourism and arranged as ethnography museum.
The museum is consisted of three floors above the ground floor. The 1st and 2nd floors are used as exhibition halls and the 3rd floor is used as warehouse, laboratory, photograph studio and office.
A wonderful collection of folkloric art displayed in the first and second floors of the museum reflects the lifestyle, customs and traditions of Izmir and its vicinity in the 19th century.
In the museum, the samples of traditional handicrafts, which are about to disappear today due to industrialization, such as felt making, wood block printing, clog making, blue bead making, tin processing, rope weaving and pottery are exhibited and introduced.
All the artifacts at the museum are well described as there are placards under every item on display. The visitors will not have any difficulty in knowing what the item is and how it is relevant to the social life of the citizens of Izmir and its nearby.
1st Floor Exhibition Hall:
Starting from the right hand side, a fully decorated living room from a 19th century Turkish residence, embroideries, informative panels and photographs about the “Houses in and around Izmir” including “Turkish Houses” and “Levantine Houses”, bath sets, a number of colorfully re-created small ateliers of glass bead making, wood block printing for scarves and cloth, Ittihat Eczanesi (Pharmacie Ittihat), the first Turkish pharmacy opened in Izmir in 1903 and all the essential medicine equipments that a pharmacy should have at that time, clog and rope making, felt-making and tin-plating and related tools of these handicrafts can be seen respectively. The potter’s craft from Menemen, a district of Izmir known to be famous for its pottery, examples of saddlery and saddlery tools are displayed. Izmir’s famous tamarind sorbet seller welcomes the visitors from the past. Explanations and displays relating to camel wrestling, costumes of swashbucklers called “Efe” are exhibited in this hall. In the embedded showcases in the interior sections of the hall, purses, crochet and needlework purses, hand woven socks, towels, bed lining, decorative fabrics, handkerchiefs, mother of pearl inlaid objects and glasses are displayed.
2nd Floor Exhibition Hall:
On the right hand side of this hall: An accurate reconstruction of a 19th century bridal chamber with its authentic furniture including bedstead, wedding chest and chest of drawers can be seen. Bridal garments “ Harballı” and “Bindallı” embroidered with silver and gold thread on satin and velvet using “Tel kırma” and “Dival” techniques, just next to them stands the living room with its furniture including carpets on the floor, brazier, an ornamented cradle, candles on the walls and velvet curtains. After living room, the circumcision room and kitchen utensils including tin plated round copper tray, plates, wooden spoons, copper pitchers and coffee mills can be seen in the same section. Richly ornamented bridal headgears from different provinces of the Aegean Region, jewelries such as bracelets, earrings, buckets and belts are some of the eye catching items displayed. Ottoman period writing sets and manuscripts are also exhibited in this section.
In addition to the old war tools such as arrows, bows, armors, spears, battle-axes, bayonets and swords, a variety of weapons belonging to 17th, 18th and 19th centuries such as rifles, pistols, matchlock and flint barrels are exhibited.
Ethnography Museum houses a wonderful variety of Bergama, Milas, Gördes, Kula, Uşak and Balıkesir-Yağcıbedir carpets and kilims. The visitors are bewildered at the excellent craftwork done on carpets and kilims. In this section, it is also possible to see saddle bags, carpet bags and a carpet loom.
Camel Wrestling:
Camel wrestling, a special event of Turkish folklore and culture, generally takes place in the western part of Turkey in an area extending from Çanakkale to Antalya. It is assumed that camel wrestling in Turkey comes from the period when caravans and nomads were widespread. The most well-known camel wrestling in Turkey is held in Selçuk, a district of Izmir, in January. Winter is the only time for camel wrestling as it is also the mating season. Male rivals who are trying to draw the attention of a female begin to fight. This is when the man, who is keen on getting animals to fight, takes advantage of the seasonal changes that he observes in the male camels and encourages them to fight each other.
Before wrestling, each male camel is dressed like a bridegroom. The owners adorn their camels with bells on their humps, mirrored blanket on their backs and colorful pompoms in their tails. The male camels are taken into the wrestling field and then a female camel is brought to the arena to incite the males and make them even more aggressive. The wrestling judges match the camels against each other with their past victories, wrestling technique and weight. These judges are also authorized to separate the camels if necessary and to decide which one is the winner. They are also responsible for preventing the victor from hurting or trampling on his defeated rival. Serious injuries during fights are rare since camels are muzzled. The defeated camel is the one whose back touches the ground when he falls, who ran off from the ring, or who fails to continue the fight when he has risen after a fall. Each winning owner is awarded a carpet.
Felt Making
Felt making has been a craft of great value in the daily life of Turks since the time of the central Asian Turks. The first Turkish people, who used felt, were the Hun Turks in the 6th century B.C. who decorated the floors and roofs of their tents with felt. Felt is a fabric created primarily from sheep’s wool. It may be made from the fibers of hair of the camel, goat, horse, ox or any other animal. Unlike other fabrics, felt is not produced by the interleaving of weft and warp but by the interlocking and fusion of free woolen fiber. Felt has an important place among textiles. Felt keeps out the cold, keeps one warm and is waterproof.
Felt is also decorative. Big pieces of felt, decorated in colorful styles, are used to adorn horses, covering the animal from head to tail. The horse carrying the bride after the wedding was traditionally decorated with a harness of felt. Shepherds still use the felt cloak known as “kepenek” however. Today this craft is carried on in Tire, a district of Izmir and in the province of Afyon in the Aegean Region by very few families.
Evil Eye Bead Making
“Nazar boncuğu”, literally meaning the “evil eye bead”, is actually a glass bead, which is worn to protect oneself and his beloved ones from evil looks. It is believed to be an eye that looks straight back at the spell-caster.
The evil eye bead is usually made of blue glass with white and yellow or white and blue circles inside. Today the glimmering evil eye beads are produced with traditional methods by a handful of craftsmen only in Görece and Kurudere villages in Izmir.
Atatürk Museum
Located in Atatürk Street, 1. Kordon, the museum was built by carpet merchant Takfor Efendi as a house in 1875-1880. It was abandoned by its owner on 9 September 1922 and given to the property of treasury. Turkish army came to Izmir and used it as headquarter. When Izmir Economics Congress was held on 17 February 1923, Atatürk carried on his own studies in this building. After the congress, the headquarter was carried to another place and the treasury hired the building to Naim Bey to be used as a hotel. On 13 October 1926, the building was taken by Izmir Municipality and given to Atatürk as a present after the decoration of the building with new furniture. Atatürk stayed here during his each visit to Izmir between 1930-1934. After the death of Atatürk on 10 November 1938, the house was given to his sister Makbule Baysan. On September 25, 1940. Izmir municipality confiscated the building to arrange it as a museum. The museum was inaugurated on 11 September 1941, on the 19th anniversary of Atatürk’s visit to Izmir. The building displays a neo-classical character, a mixture of Ottoman and Levantine architecture. The museum is constituted of a basement, ground floor, first floor and roof. On the first floor there are rooms which were used by Atatürk; a conference hall, study hall, bedroom, guest room, hair- dressing room, waiting room, guard room, library, dining room and bathroom.
Ephesus Museum
History: Initially, a depot was created in Selçuk in 1929 and the artifacts, found during the excavations and collected from the environment, were brought to this depot. In 1964, the construction of the section in the south of the museum, which is in use today, was completed and the artifacts began to be displayed. In 1976, the museum that was composed of several halls was enlarged by the construction of its northern section since it had not been sufficient for the artifacts brought from the excavations. The museum is composed of two main sections, namely, archeology and ethnography. Ephesus Museum is a rich local museum with its vital artifacts for Ephesus and Anatolian archeology, the majority of which was brought from Ephesus excavations, Church of St. John, Belevi Tomb Monument and other ruins in the vicinity. The artifacts exhibited in the museum are dated from the 4th millennium B.C. to the Prehistoric, Mycenaean, Archaic, Classical, Hellenistic, Roman, Byzantine, Seljuk and Ottoman Periods. The exhibition is not in classical chronological order and the artifacts are exhibited at the halls which are arranged according to locations of finds.
Terrace Houses and Hall of House Finds: This first hall at the entrance exhibits the artifacts, which were found during the excavations at Terrace Houses in Ephesus and the majority of which belonged to the Roman Period. On the left are the plans and excavation photographs of the houses as well as the statues of Asclepius, the God of Medicine, and his daughter Hygieia. Next to it on the first showcase are the artifacts with respect to medicine and cosmetics. The house cult and belongings of use exist on the second showcase. Among them is a glass tray, which is the most interesting one. Straight ahead is a statue of the Hunter Artemis inside a niche on the frescoed wall brought from the corner of a house and the head and fresco of Socrates are located on its left side. The bust of Emperor Marcus Aurelius, the heads of Priapos, the God of Fertility, Bes, Emperor Tiberius and Livia are located on the right side of the hall, with the bronze snake in front of them, whereas the Egyptian monk statuettes are on the left at the exit of the hall. Being one of the most important works of the museum, found at the Terrace Houses, and depicting the preparations and war of Emperor Traian with eastern barbarians in three episodes, the ivory frieze group is displayed at the center of the hall.
Hall of Fountain Finds: The artifacts unearthed during the excavations at the fountains of Pollio, Traian and Laecanus Bassus in Ephesus are exhibited at this hall. The head of God Zeus and the statue of Aphrodite are immediately on the left side of the entrance. The statue of “the Resting Warrior” is located at the center of the hall. On the left side is the statue group of “Odysseus-Polyphemos”, which decorate the Fountain of Pollio. The statues in front of this group belong to the Fountain of Traian. The first statue is Dionysos leaning on the trunk of a tree. The other statues are the lying Satyr, Aphrodite carrying an oyster shell on her paunch as well as Androclus and his dog. There are a series of busts on the right side of the hall. They are followed by the statues located at the Fountain of Laecanus Bassus.
Hall of New Finds: Some of the recently found artifacts are exhibited here for several years. Eros reliefs and statues are still exhibited at the hall. Eros with Dolphin, dated to the 2nd century A.D., and the Roman Period copy of the head of the statue of Eros by the famous Sculptor Lysippos are outstanding works among them The Ephesian coins and the coin samples obtained from the region are chronologically displayed on the showcases in a separately-arranged section of the hall.
The Great Courtyard: A garden that was suitable for regional architecture was constructed for the museum. Fragments from Belevi Tomb Monument, collection of column capitals, “Pamucak Kuros” of the Archaic Period as well as inscriptions and distinguished reliefs involving the customs laws of the Early Empire Period of the state of Asia are outstanding here. The artifacts displayed at the pediment in the courtyard are the completed copies of artifacts of Odyseus-Polyphemos group and they demonstrate their condition at the pediment of the temple in the state agora, supposed to have been their initial places of use. The collection of column capitals is exhibited below this pedimen Sarcophagi, ostotheks and steles are located on the right side of the garden. Particularly the decorations of the sarcophagus, dated to the 2nd century A.D., are quite interesting. The surroundings of the sarcophagus are decorated with the figures of Moses. According to the inscription on its cover, it was reused in the East Roman Period. The sundial in the middle is composed of a semicircular time scale. Byzantine Period marble railing screens of the Monument of St. John are exhibited inside the portico section on its left side.
Hall of Ephesian Artemis: The cult statues of Ephesian Artemis, among the rare works of world museums, and some of the valuable votive offerings left in the temple are displayed at this hall of the museum. Two statues of Artemis, which are one more beautiful than the other, are presented to visitors in appropriate for their fame. They belonged to the Roman Period and were found in Prytaneion in Ephesus during excavations. The statue on the left was referred to as “Great Artemis” while the statue in front of it was referred to as “Beautiful Artemis” owing to the kind of marble. One of the horses of the four-horse cart ornamenting the altar of the Temple of Artemis, reliefs of Artemis and lead water pipe samples of Artemision are also located at this hall.
Hall of Emperor Cults and Portraits: Generally, one can observe the busts of emperors and their families at this hall. The statue located immediately on the right of the entrance on the side of ‘Hall of Artemis’ belongs to Consul Stephanos. The original friezes of the Temple of Hadrian are seen on both sides of the photograph of the same temple on the wall on the left side. The altar at the center is a fragment of the U-shaped altar of the Temple of Domitian. It has reliefs on three sides. The unearthed fragments of the giant statue of Emperor Domitian are exhibited at the exit of the hall. In addition, the statues of Emperor Augustus and his wife Livia as well as some fragments of Parthian Monument decorate this hall.
The Small Courtyard and Front Garden: There is a café and striking artifacts are exhibited at the small courtyard. At the entrance of the museum in the front is the statue of Hermeros whereas on its front façade are two garland sarcophagi and gladiator steles.
Bergama Museum
Bergama Archeology Museum was first built as a museum depot in 1924 and was opened for visit in its new building in 1936. The museum is composed of two galleries which surround the inner courtyard and two halls. The objects belonging to various periodsstarting from Early Bronze Age to Byzantine Age are exhibited in the museum. Among the finds in the archaic residences around, samples belonging to Pergamon sculpture school, Archaic Period finds coming from Pitane and Gryneion, Myrna terracotta draw attention. Marble statues of Hellenistic period coming from Pergamon Acropolis, architectural works, reliefs, little terracotta statues, glass objects, oil lamps and coins are exhibited.
In the ethnography section, carpets, kilims of the region (Yuntdag, Yağcıbedir, Kozak, Bergama, weavings), cloth weaving samples, hand works and other hand made objects belonging to other regions are exhibited.
LOCAL HANDICRAFTS
The carpets and kilims of Bergama-Yuntdag villages are known as typical Aegean weavings. Plant and animal figures are used as much as geometric figures on the weavings. Natural dyes are used in the weavings which never loose colour. Kozak and Yunt weavings such as carpets, kilims, saddlebag, socks and prayer rugs are differed from the other examples with their colors and figures. Bergama carpets are known as Holbein carpets all around the world. These carpets are exhibited in many museums in Europe and America besides Bergama Ethnography Museum. Bergama weavings are offered to the visitors in the shops in the district
Çeşme Museum
History of Çeşme Museum
One of the historical and cultural values of Çeşme District worth seeing is the Çeşme Fort. Çeşme Fort has been constructed in 1508, during the period of Beyazıt II. It has been had constructed by Aydın Governor Mir Haydar to Architect Ahmet oğlu Mehmet.
Çeşme Archeology museum is located in the fort, which reached today being preserved in a very good way. Çeşme museum has been opened to visit for the first time in 1965 as a gun museum with the guns brought from İstanbul Topkapı Museum and continued its function in this way until 1984. Since the guns in the museum have been oxidized and begun to deform due to the excess humidity in the hall, they have been transferred to İzmir Archeology and Ödemiş Museums. The same exhibition hall has been arranged and used for the exhibition of the works obtained from the rescue excavations made in Ildırı (Erythrai) archaic city, which have been continuing since 1964. God and goddess sculptures made of cooked earth, busts, marble sculptures, silver and bronze coins, golden frames, amphora are being exhibited.
Most important of the visible ruins in Ildırı (Erythrai) is the city walls. Besides this, acropolis and the theatre in north of it and the villa buildings found in the excavations made in the north of the acropolis, Athena temple belonging to the Archaic Period, the church constructed in Byzantine period, Roman villa and mosaics at the location called as Cennettepe, the bath building constructed in Late - Roman - Byzantine Period can be seen.
The visitors can visit the military and civil buildings found as the result of the excavations and researches carried out in Ildırı (Erythrai) archaic city, against no charge.
Tire Museum
It was built by Tire Public House Museum Department in 1935 inside Yahsibey Zaviyesi, which was built by Halil Yahsibey, one of the Commander of Murat II. The works, which were taken from Tire and the towns in its vicinity by buying, restitution and donation, are exhibited in archeology and ethnography halls and its yard.
Archeology Hall:The work of arts dated at 3000, BC-1453, AD such as beak mouthed pots of prehistoric period, lighter stones, painted pots of Classical period, terra cotta sarcophagus of Hellenistic period, marble and glass works, marble and glass works of art of Roman period, coins, terra cotta figures, gold, silver and glass jewels are exhibited.Ethnography hall:Generally pieces which reflect the daily life of Ottomans of 18th and 19th century such as mevlut blankets, large handkerchief, head blanket, drawstring, coin and watch bags, handkerchiefs, man and woman costumes and accessories are exhibited. In the embroidery of these staff color and pattern were wholly prepared. Mostly plant, flower and animal patterns were embroidered with pastel and lively colors by using smooth tight, thin leather cord, embossing techniques.Again in that hall there are dervish lodge materials, war equipments, originally European ceramics which were used in West Anatolia and window stained glass In the front garden there are columns and capitals of Roman period, marble sarcophagus, terra cotta stored food cubes and grave steles and in the back yard marble sarcophagus, tomb stones of Ottomans dating back to 7th and 19th centuries and inscriptions are exhibited.
Ödemiş Museum
The idea of establishing a museum at Ödemiş, which is located on a fertile valley lying among the mountains Bozdağlar in the north and Aydın in the south and irrigated with Küçük Menderes River, first emerged in 1974. The first concrete step towards that end was taken when during the 1975 - 1976 period Mutahhar Başoğlu, a collector himself, donated two plots of land totalling 2772 meter square to the Treasury, to be used for a museum building.
Before Ödemiş Museum was built the items from the area were being kept and cared for at İzmir Archaeology Museum and the Tire Museum. They were later transferred back from both museums. In order to achieve chronological unity, the missing and needed archaeological and ethnographic items and coin samples were selected from various museums and transferred to the Ödemiş Museum.
The museum, which is designed in a tent form, has a basement and only one floor above it, and consists of a single hall. In the building which was originally conceived as an ethnographical museum, archaeological items from the environs are also displayed in addition to ethnographic material. The displays of the archaeological section are mostly from Old Bronze Age (3000 B.C) and Archaic (700 - 480 B.C) Classic (480 330 B.C), Hellenistic (330 - 30 B.C), Roman (30 B.C - 395) and Byzantine (395 -1453) periods.
There are ceramics, idols, blades and axes, oil lamps, bronze pieces, glass pieces, ornaments, baked earth statuettes, and marble statuettes. There are also thousands of coins in the archaeological section from the Hellenistic, Roman, Byzantine, Seljuk and Ottoman periods. The ethnography section contains various weapons, copper and silver items, glass pieces, ornaments, embroideries, and costume samples, mostly belonging to the Ottoman period. There are also examples of handicrafts from the Republican period of Turkey.
There are plenty of items exhibited at the Ödemiş Museum. A group of archaeological and ethnographic material was donated by the collector Muhtar Başoğlu, some were purchased and other confiscated items.
Ancient Cities
Agora
Agora means “a meeting place, city square, marketplace or bazaar”. In the Ancient Times, agora was known not only with its commercial, political and religious functions but also as a place where art activities were concentrated and many social events were held. Generally there were two agoras in the big cities. One of them was the state agora where the state affairs were dealt with and various public buildings were located around it whereas the other one was the commercial agora where commercial activities were concentrated. Visited today and located in Namazgah, the agora in İzmir constituted the state agora of the city.
Most of the ruins of Agora, established in the 4th century B.C., having been able to survive up to now, belong to the agora of the Roman Period which was reconstructed after the earthquake in 178 A.D. with the support of the Emperor Marcus Aurelius.
The agora in Smyrna is a structure which was planned in the form of a rectangle and which is surrounded by columned galleries (stoa) with a large courtyard in the center. Revealed during the excavations, the northern and the western stoas ascend on the basement floor. Examined in terms of its plan features, the northern stoa is found out to be a basilica.
THE NORTHERN STOA (BASILICA)
Located in the northern wing of Agora, the basilica has a rectangular plan with the dimensions of 165x28 m. The groin vaults on the eastern and western edges of the magnificent basement having survived up to now, are among the most beautiful examples of the architecture during the Roman Period.
THE WESTERN STOA
Composed of naves (gallery) which are separated by three sets of columns, the western stoa ascended on a basement just like the basilica. It is understood that the western stoa, whose vaulted basement floors are mostly observed today, was a two-story structure ascending on the basement floor during the ancient times. The ground floor, which one ascends by three steps from the courtyard, and the second floor with a wooden floor were the places where people were protecting themselves from the rain and the sun and were strolling during the Ancient Times.
Constructed by building some of the walls of the galleries on the basement possibly at the end of the Roman Period, the cisterns have survived up to now as the most beautiful example of this.
FAUSTINA GATE AND THE ANCIENT AVENUE
Smyrna was planned in accordance with the Hippodamian system where the streets of the city intersect each other. That’s why, one of its parallel avenues in the directions of east-and-west was intersecting agora. There is a magnificent gate at the point where the avenue, dividing the agora probably in two equal parts, enters the agora in the west.
At the center of the northern arch of the gate, which is thought to have two sections, is the portrait relief of Faustina, the wife of the Roman Emperor Marcus Aurelius.
GRAFFITIES
Being the wall drawings and writings of the Roman Period, the graffities were made on the plasters located on walls and the bases of the arches in the basement of the basilica. Besides the ones drawn by ink, made of the mixture of iron and oak roots, there are also examples made by scraping off.
These graffities constitute the oldest graffities drawn by the material involving iron and oak roots.
AGORA IN THE TURKISH PERIOD
Agora, whose past dates back to 4th century B.C., owes the Turkish people its survival up to the present.
A significant part of Agora, the majority of which had stayed underground and forgotten, was used as a “graveyard” during the Ottoman Period and its environs were used as “Namazgah” (an open area where people performed a kind of worship called “namaz”). Therefore, a kind of “immunity” was provided in the area, where Agora is located, thanks to the two religious concepts of “graveyard-and-namazgah” which arise respect. As a result, Agora has been protected from “the treasure hunters”, “the smugglers of historical works” and such people and it has been protected and survived intact for centuries.
Ephesus
Although ancient writes claim that the name of Ephesus derives from an Amazon Queen’s name, the archaeological finds reveals that The Carians and Lelegians, the native peoples of Anatolia, had settled here long before the Ionians’ arrival. Ephesus was first established in 6000 B.C and grew up around the Temple of Artemis. The Ephesians started to move to the new city built by Lysimachos in the 3rd century B.C. The following is the list of the various ruins of Ephesus as they appear from the upper gate, which leads to the House of Virgin Mary, to the lower gate.
THE MAGNESIAN GATE
This is the only city gate that survives up to the present day. There is not much thing to see today.
THE EAST GYMNASIUM
The East Gymnasium, one of the monumental structures of Ephesus, the gymnasium, is a complex that includes baths, palaestrae (exercise fields), study halls, and imperial cult rooms. According to an inscription it was built by famous sophist Flavius Damianus and his wife Vedia Phaedrina.
THE VARIUS BATHS
The Varius Baths were constructed in the 1st century B.C. During the excavations, parts of a bath and a roman latrine came to light. These structures next to the bath might belong to a gymnasium that may have been part of the complex.
THE WATER SYSTEM AND NYMPHENIUM
The water springs are rather away from the fountains and houses in Ephesus. This monumental fountain on the street bounding the south side of the state was supplied by the Marnas River. The large fountain is well integrated into the street that fronts it. This monumental fountain was built between 4-14 A.D., and underwent various renovations the last of which was in the fourth century.
THE STATE AGORA
The state agora, measures 160 X 73 meters and was constructed in the 1st century A.D. It was the place the location of official religious and civic ceremonies, of government assemblies, and of the mercantile activities of the larger trading concerns that were subject to government regulation.
THE ODEION
This structure was devoted both to civic meetings and musical and theatrical performances. It seated 1400 people, and was constructed by Vedius Antonius and his wife Papiana in the second century A.D.
THE PRYTANEION
The Prytaneion (town hall ) was considered to be the sacred place of the city. It contained the altar of Hestia Boulaia, where a sacred fire burnt perpetually for centuries and was never extinguished. This the find spot of the two great statues of the Ephesian Artemis which are displayed at the museum now. The building was built in the 3rd century B.C during the reign of Lysimachos. The ruins seen today are dated to 1st century A.D. Two later temples near the site were dedicated to Emperor Julius Caesar and Dea Roma, the divine personification of the city of Rome.
THE WATER PALACE
It was built by proconsul Laecanius Bassus in 80 A.D., and is also called the “Water palace" because of its monumental appearance.
THE MEMMIUS MONUMENT
Memmius was one of the grandsons of Sulla, the famous Roman general. This monument dedicated to him was constructed in the first century A.D. during the reign of emperor August. A fountain was built into the northwest corner of the monument in the fourth century A.D.
THE TEMPLE OF DOMITIAN
Dedicated to Domitian, this is the first structure in Ephesus to be built in honour of a Roman emperor. The temple was erected on a terrace supported by a substructure measuring 50 by 100meters. The substructure of the temple is used as "Inscription Gallery" today.
THE POLLIO FOUNTAIN
This structure dedicated to C.Sextilius Pollio in 97 A.D. It was decorated by the statue group of Odysseus and Polyphemus, and a basin stood in front of it.
THE GATE OF HERCULES
Just before the Street of the Curetes stand the remains of ancient gate known as the Gate of Hercules. This name arises from the figures of Hercules on the western faces of the two extant pillars. The capitals of the columns were decorated with acanthus leaves. Presumably these pillars, along with four others were standing on the beam above the arch of the gate.
THE STREETS OF KOURETES
Owing to the fact that this street was used by a six-membered-class of civic priests, who were chosen anew each year, and played an important role in the management of the city, it was given “Kouretes Street. The porticoes flanked both sides of the street, which provided shade for pedestrian, and behind of which were located the various shops. The street was lined by statues of prominent Ephesians. After three severe earthquakes hit the city in the 4th century A.D. the street was restored. The main sewer system in Ephesus lies beneath this marble pavement of the street.
THE FOUNTAIN OF TRAJAN
It was dedicated to the emperor Trajan (98- 117), and constructed between 102-114 A.D. The two storied fountain had a colossal statue of Emperor Trajan in the middle.
THE SCOLASTICA BATHS
The first construction on this site dates to the first century, and was later connected to the brothel and the latrine. The three storied bath dates to 400A.D. comprises a various rooms for bathing and lounging along with a library and has a capacity of 1000.
THE LATRINE
The general toilets had a square pool in the middle surrounded on four sides by toilet seats, in front of which was a channel of running water. The floor of this place was covered with mosaics.
THE HADRIAN TEMPLE
The Hadrian Temple is one of the most impressive constructions in Ephesus. It was dedicated to the Emperor Hadrian (118-138 A.D.) The relief of Tyche, the goddess of city, is seen on the pediment of the temple. The legend about how Ephesus was established is also depicted on the friezes of the temple.
THE SLOPE HOUSES
These two or three storied houses belonged to the wealthy people of Ephesus were first built in the 1st century A.D. They were used as dwelling, with some renovations and repair until the seventh century. The walls were garnished with frescoes and the floors were decorated with mosaics.
THE BROTHEL
This two storied structure built during the reign of Emperor Trajan, forms a complex with the Scholastica Baths the latrines. The walls were decorated with frescoes and the floor was covered with mosaics.
THE LIBRARY OF CELSUS
The Celsus Library was erected in A.D 135 by Julius Aquila for his father Julius Celsus Polemaeanus, the consul of Asia province of Roman Empire. The library, measuring 60.90 by 16.72 meters had a two storied facade and a large room inside. Its facade contains exemplars of architectural elements that are among the most beautiful ones of the period, such as doors, windows, gables, niches and columns. A gap of one meter between inner and outer walls of the the library protected the books from extremes of temperature and humidity. The sarcophagus of Celsus stand under the west side of the library. Four female statues standing between the columns personify the virtues of Celsus: Sophia (wisdom), Arete (virtue), Ennoia (intelligence), Episteme (knowledge). Celsus himself is buried in a sarcophagus beneath the west side of the library.
THE GATE OF MAZAEUS AND MITHRIDATES
This gate to the Agora was erected in 4-3 B.C by the freed slaves Mazaeus and Mithridates in honour of their former masters emperor Augustus and his family.
THE COMMERCIAL AGORA
The commercial agora , one of the significant centres in Ephesus was the real market place for trade in Ephesus. It was square and enclosed on all four sides by stoas. The agora was set up during the Hellenistic age and rebuilt during the reign of Emperor Nero and again in the 3rd century A.D.
THE TEMPLE OF SERAPIS
A path with a flight of stairs at the southwest corner of the Agora leads to the Temple of Serapis. The temple was rising on a high terrace .This prostyle temple had columns in the Corinthian order, each of which had a diameter of 1.5 meters and a total weight of 57 tons.
THE MARBLE ROAD
The sacred way that surrounds the Panayır Mountain is called the marble Street here, and is well preserved. The road was intended for vehicles, since pedestrians could use the colonnade. The huge sewer system of the city, which had a channel large enough to be entered by a human being also was running under this street.
THE GREAT THEATRE
It is situated on the slope of Mount Panayır. It was first built in the Hellenistic times and renovated in the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D. It seated 24.000 spectators. The stage building was three storied and rose to a height of 18 m. The cavea, the seating area, had consisted of three superimposed sections. The theatre was the scene of gladiatorial fights during the late Roman period.
During the early years of the Christianity, St.Paul who came to Ephesus to spread Christianty and he wanted to address to the crowd at the theatre. The silversmith Demetrius provoked the people against St. Paul because he earned a lot of many with his handmade Artemis statues and they shouted altogether “ Artemis of Ephesus is great, The greatest is Artemis”. So St.Paul was forced to leave Ephesus and he continued his journey to Macedonia.
THE ARKADIANE (HARBOUR) WAY
It was constructed in late Hellenistic period and renovated by the Emperor Arcadius (395 - 405) and known by his name. It is 500 m. in length and 11m. in width The shops were located on both sides of the Arkadiane way. It is also known as "Harbour Way"
THE THEATRE GYMNASIUM
This structure was built in the early period of the Roman Empire. Since it is situated next to the theatre it is also called "The Theatre Gymnasium" It is the largest gymnasium at Ephesus
THE HARBOUR GYMNASIUM AND BATHS:
There were two palaestras (athletic training grounds), one of which was 90 sq.m area and the other 200mx240m. The structure was built in the reigns of Emperors Domitian and Hadrian. The baths were erected in the second century. Since the baths were renovated in the 4th century they were also called “The Constantines Baths".
THE CHUCH OF VIRGIN MARY (THE CHURCH OF COUNCILS)
This church, one of the important edifices of Christianity, is the first church which was dedicated to Virgin Mary. The third meeting of the Ecumenical Council was held in this church in A.D 431.
THE STADIUM
The stadium measured 230mx30m and resembled a horse-shoe. The entrance was in its west facade. Seats for the spectators on the south side were constructed on the slopes of Mt.Pion while those on the north were built over a vaulted substructure .The first site of the stadium appears to go back to the Hellenistic period, and during the reign of the Emperor Nero (54-68 A.D.) it underwent transformation.
THE VEDIUS GYMNASIUM
The gymnasium, one of the preserved buildings to be found in Ephesus, was erected in A.D 150 by P.Vedius Antonius, one of the prominent wealthy Ephesians of the time and dedicated to the Emperor Pius and the goddess Artemis.
Pergamon
HISTORY OF PERGAMON
After the death of Alexander the Great (323 B.C), Lysimachos, one of Alexander’s generals, chose Pergamon as the depository for his vast wealth, placing here 9,000 talents of gold under the guardianship of his lieutenant, Philetairos (283-263 B.C). Upon Lysimachos’s death, Philetairos retained this money for himself and with it founded the Pergamon monarchy which lasted 150 years. Pergamon later became the capital of a flourishing Hellenistic kingdom and one of the principal centers of Hellenistic civilisation. Philetariros extended his kingdom as far as the shores of The Marmara Sea. After Philetairos his nephew Eumenes I (263-241 BC) came into the power. He managed to preserve these frontiers by paying tribute to the Galatians. Attalos I (241-197 BC), the son of Eumenes I, defeated the Galatians in battle and began to use the title of King. Attalos was deeply interested in art and culture. The city was adorned with architectural splendours during his reign. Eumenes II( 197-159 B.C.) raised the Kingdom of Pergamon to its rank of one of the strongest states of Hellenistic times, by means of the close times he established with Rome. He also brought the city to the climax of its cultural prominence.
When Eumenes II died his brother Attalos II (159-138 B.C.) ruled the kingdom. The Kingdom die with AttalosIII ( 159-138 B.C.) and he bequeathed (133 BC) his domains to the Roman Empire. Pergamon continued to be a very important center during the Roman period. Pergamon became the center of a diocese in the Christian era, and one of the Seven Churches of the Apocalypse mentioned in Bible was located here. In Byzantine times, the city was surrounded by a new wall, constructed from the the remains of stone blocks, statues etc. dating from the Hellenistic and Roman eras. The city went through the Arab and finally the Turkish period in the 14th century.
Pergamon attained a high culture in the Hellenistic era, boasting an outstanding library that rivalled in importance that of Alexandria, a famous school of sculpture and excellent public buildings and monuments of which the Zeus Altar is the best example.
Archaeological Evidence
A young German engineer Carl Humann, who was engaged in building a road in Bergama in 1875 was told that a great quantity of loose stone was available among the ruins at the top of the hill behind the city. That which started as the need for road construction resulted in Humann’s archaeological studies and the uncovering of many beautiful pieces including the Zeus Altar and Gateway to the Sanctuary of Athena which were subsequently taken to the Pergamon Museum in Berlin.
ACROPOLIS
The function of the acropolis in Pergamon was never the same as the function of the acropolis in Athens. In Athens everything was focused on religion, whereas in Pergamon it was on social and cultural activities, or in other words, daily life. As a result of this contrast, major buildings in Pergamon were reserved for public use in daily life. Even in the temples, religion was of secondary importance. Buildings had large areas for the public where they could meet, walk or join in social affairs. Pergamon was the first city to react against functional urbanism of Hippodamus preferring ornamental urbanism. Pergamenes agreed that functionalism was necessary, but that aesthetics were to be given even more consideration. The buildings of the Acropolis were designed to be seen from below and to impress those viewing the city from the valley.
Except for the Trajan Temple all the buildings were built in the Hellenistic period during which constructions were made of andesite and very rarely in marble.
Heroon:
In general, Heroon is a shrine dedicated to a deified hero. The Heroon in the Acropolis of Pergamon was the imperial cult or the shrine in which kings of Pergamon, especially Attalos I and Eumenes II, were worshipped.
It was a peristyle building made of andesite from the Hellenistic period.
The Sanctuary of Athena:
It was entered through a propylon which was built by Eumenes II. As written in its inscription, it was dedicated to victory-bringing Athena by King Eumenes. The entrance opens into a courtyard surrounded by three stoas of the Doric order. This also dates from the same period. At the corner near the theater was the Athena Temple in Doric order which was built earlier, in the 3C BC. It was built of andesite and stood on a crepidoma with two steps.
The Library of Pergamon,
The library built by Eumenes II, was the second of the three famous ancient libraries. It contained 200,000 volumes. A century later Mark Antony gave them to Cleopatra as a wedding present to be added to the collection of the library in Alexandria. The library building was next to the north stoa of the Athena Sanctuary. Most probably, the second floor of the stoa was at the same level with the first floor of the library. It had a large reading hall with many shelves all around, leaving an empty space between walls and shelves for the circulation of air to prevent humidity. Manuscripts were written on parchment then rolled or folded and put on shelves.
When the Egyptians prohibited the export of papyrus, the King of Pergamon ordered that a new material be found. The new discovery was "parchment", a fine material from sheep or goat skin, highly polished with pumice stone and slit into sheets. Therefore the name of Pergamon has been perpetuated and seen as synonymous with the word "parchment".
The Temple of Trajan
It was a 2C AD temple in Corinthian order, dedicated to Trajan, built by his successor Hadrian. Both emperors were worshipped there. The temple was built of marble, probably on the site of a previous Hellenistic building. Before the construction, the area was levelled off by using a successful arched and vaulted substructure. The temple is flanked by stoas on three sides, the one at the back being higher than the others. It was in Corinthian order to have a peripteros plan, with 9 by 6 columns.
The Theatre
It is said that the Theater in the acropolis of Pergamon is the steepest raked Hellenistic theater in the world. The cavea of the theater which consists of 80 rows of seats is divided into three sections by two diazomas. The capacity was 10,000 people. The construction material is andesite. Because it was originally a Hellenistic theater, there was not a permanent stage building and people sitting on the cavea could see outside and beyond the playing area. In the Hellenistic period, performances were held in a festive atmosphere and took a long time. People spent a lot of time in the theater, usually the minimum of a full day. Therefore, they never wanted to block their view of outside and the stage building, being made of wood, was portable. Square holes at the back of the orchestra were for the portable stage building. The theater was also used during the Roman period with some alterations.
The Zeus Altar
The finest altar ever built can be accepted as the Zeus Altar at Pergamon, of about 180 BC, which stands in its own precinct but, most unusually, without a temple. The altar, a marble offering-table, stood on an enormous stone plinth, which also supported the double colonnade of Ionic columns enclosing it on three sides. On the fourth side it was approached by a fine stairway, nearly 20 m / 65 ft wide.
Much of the structure and almost all of the friezes are now in Berlin. Decorated with vigorous friezes of life-size figures depicting a battle between gods and giants, its contemporary context is probably King Eumenes II’s celebration of his recent victories over the Gauls in Pontus and Bithynia. If this is so, then the context incorporates within its apparently straightforward mythology the King’s assertion of his own triumphant role as the defender of traditions against barbarians.
KIZIL AVLU (THE RED COURT)
This building was temple dedicated to Egyptian gods and goddesses , built in the 2nd century A.D. from the time of the Emperor Hadrian. In the Byzantine period it was converted into a basilica which was dedicated to St.John. It was one of the seven churches of apocalypse. It was damaged by Arabs in the 8th century A.D. The building is 60x26 metres and its court extends 260x110 metres. Because of the red brick, used to construct the building, it is called Red Court. There are two towers on the right and left sides. The tower on the left side is used as a mosque today.
Pergamon: One of the Seven Churches of Revelation
(Revelation 2:12-17)
(12) "Write this letter to the leader of the church in Pergamos:
"This message is from him who wields the sharp and double-bladed sword. (13) I am fully aware that you live in the city where Satan’s throne is, at the center of satanic worship; and yet you have remained loyal to me and refused to deny me, even when Antipas, my faithful witness, was martyred among you by Satan’s devotees.
(14) "And yet I have a few things against you. You tolerate some among you who do as Balaam did when he taught Balak how to ruin the people of Israel by involving them in sexual sin and encouraging them to go to idol feasts. (15) Yes, you have some of these very same followers of Balaam among you!
(16) "Change your mind and attitude, or else I will come to you suddenly and fight against them with the sword of my mouth.
(17) "Let everyone who can hear, listen to what the Spirit is saying to the churches: Every one who is victorious shall eat of the hidden manna, the secret nourishment from heaven; and I will give to each a white stone and on the stone will be engraved a new name that no one else knows except the one receiving it.
ASKLEPİON
Asklepieion was a sanctuary and a healing center built in the name of the god of healing, Asklepios. It was similar to the one in Epidauros in Greece and the in the island Cos. Although this place was set up in the 4C BC, it had its peak during the Roman period. In mythology Asklepios, son of Apollo, the god of healing, was a famous physician. His mother, Coronis, a princess of Thessaly, died when he was an infant. Apollo entrusted the child’s education to Chiron, a centaur, who taught Asklepios the healing arts. Asklepios, when grown, became so skilled in surgery and the use of medicinal plants that he could even restore the dead back to life. Hades, ruler of the dead, became alarmed at this and complained to Zeus, who killed Asklepios with a thunderbolt. The healing center, Asclepieum, had been something very similar to a modern natural healing clinic. Patients were given exercises, drugs, herbal remedies, or could take the honey cure, drink the waters of the spring or be treated by suggestion. Here the dreams were analysed 2000 years before Sigmond Freud. They could walk among the trees and be calmed by the scent of pine. Over the gate had been inscribed the words: "In the name of the Gods, Death is forbidden to enter". Snakes were sacred to Asklepios because of their power to renew themselves. That is why there was a relief of snakes at the entrance to the sacred area of the medical center symbolising health. Among the famous physicians of the Asclepieum was Galen.
Galen (c.131-199 AD)
Galen was the most outstanding physician of antiquity after Hippocrates. His anatomical studies on animals and observations of how the human body functions dominated medical theory and practice for 1400 years. Galen was born in Pergamon. A shrine to the healing god Asklepios was located in Pergamon and there young Galen observed how the medical techniques of the time were used to treat the ill or wounded. He received his formal medical training in nearby Smyrna and then travelled widely, gaining more medical knowledge.
Galen dissected many animals, particularly goats, pigs and monkeys, to demonstrate how different muscles are controlled at different levels of the spinal cord. He also showed that the brain controls the voice. Galen showed that arteries carry blood, disproving the 400-year-old belief that arteries carry air. Galen was also highly praised in his time as a philosopher. He closely followed the view of the philosopher Aristotle that nothing in nature is superfluous. Galen’s principal contribution to philosophic thought was the concept that God’s purposes can be understood by examining nature. Galen’s observations in anatomy remained his most enduring contribution. His medical writings were translated by Arab scholars in the 9th century.
The Site
The Colonnaded Road connected Asclepieum to the city. Originally it was 820 m / 2,700 ft. Today only a small part of this road is visible. The Propylon was located at the end of the colonnaded road and dates back to 2nd century AD. It had 12 steps and opened into a large courtyard which was surrounded by stoas on three sides. Stoas originally had Ionic capitals but after an earthquake in the 2C AD, some Corinthian capitals were also used. The Library was for both educational and entertainment purposes with many medical books for the physicians and other books for use by the patients. The Theater is a small building in Roman style with a capacity of 3,500 people. It was mainly used for performances to entertain the patients when not receiving treatment. The Sacred Fountain provided water believed to have had healing power. Sleeping rooms were used to make the patients sleep and analyse their dreams. The Tunnel is a vaulted subterranean passageway. It is 80 m / 262 ft long. Under the floor ran water which provided relaxing sounds. On the ceiling there are 12 windows to provide sunlight inside the tunnel. The Round Treatment Center was a two-storied building. Today only the lower floor remains. The walls and the floor were covered with marble and the roof was made of wood. Water coming through the tunnel, recesses for washing and the sun-terrace show that this room was also used for the treatment of patients. The Temple of Asklepios was erected by the Consul of the time in the 2C AD. The main part of the temple was cylindrical and covered by a dome. The floor and the walls were decorated with marble mosaics. There were many statues of gods and deities related to health including those of Asklepios himself. This building can be accepted as one of the earliest structures with a dome in Anatolia.
Allianoi
In the excavations done in previous years a new Asklepieion dedicated to Askleipios was found in Pasa Ilıcası, 18 km northeast from Bergama.
Hadrianotherainian P.A. Aristides who lived in 2nd century, AC tells about the curing in Allianoi where is 23-25 km away from Pergamon in his book named Hieroi Logoi (Sacred Words). Allianoi is supposed to be the antique center which was found in Pasa ılıcası area considering there isn’t any healing center around Pergamon at that distance and at these dimensions. Cult center is revealed to be one of the most important resting places of this region because of its connections with the other highways.
As a result of the excavations since 1998:
- frigidarium built on a 9700 m2 area with still having hot water at 47C resting or therapy rooms, fountains and pools, thermal centers,
- double arched Roman bridge which is still used,
- columned ceremony road in east-west direction, 210 m long, 6 m wide
- columned street in north-south direction, 35 m long, 8 m wide,
- stores and shops used for different works at the back of the stoas of the columned street
- a nympheum (a memorial fountain)
- a magnificent healing center
- a propylene at the beginning of the street in north-south direction
- a passage at the end of the streets in east-west direction
- latrine
- a huge church in basilica type
- two chapels
- necropolis (cemetery)
- Ceramic workshops, furnaces
- drinking water and waste water systems were found.
Allianoi was probably built in 2, B.C., lived a big public works movement in Hadrian time in 2, AC and turned into a cult center where hydrotherapy was held. Here was partly settled in Byzantine time. It is one of the biggest and well preserved complexes which was built on a hot water source in West Anatolia
Metropolis
Metropolis, meaning Mother Goddess, was founded around 725 B.C. and lived its sparkling time during the Hellenistic Period. The city developed in the beginning of the 3rd century B.C. The city was surrounded by magnificent defence walls, the temple of Ares, various monumental buildings such as stoa and the theatre were established on the acropolis.
During the Roman Period, the city retained its importance but Romans preferred to settle in the plain rather than on the slopes. The city was expended during the Byzantium time. But in the late Byzantium period wars and instability led to a reduction in the size of the city. Later on, Metropolis was inhabited by Turks.
The Theatre:
The theatre was established in the late Hellenistic period. It was constructed against the slope of a hill, possessing a very beautiful view overlooking the plain as it is seen in each Hellenistic. In 4-14 A.D. the three round altars adorned with garlands and ram, bull and stag heads were added in honour of the Roman emperor Augustus. The seats of the theatre for royal family and distinguished people are the beautiful examples of the Hellenistic sculpture. The stage building, the orchestra and cavea were uncovered during the excavations. The auditorium ( cavea ) was divided in two by a corridor and the lower part was divided by flights of the steps in to seven sections, known as kerkis, each of which consisted of eleven rows of seats.
The theatre was not in use after 4th century A.D and utilised as a refuse dump for the near by glass workshop.
Stoa:
The stoa which is established in the 3rd century B.C. is 70x10.5 metres and divided into two aisles by a row of 19 columns. The structure is open in front with walls and on the two sides.
The stoa was constructed on a slope and destroyed in the earthquake that devastated Western Anatolia in 17 A.D. and was never reconstructed.
Acropolis:
The acropolis, upper city, was founded on a hill height of 145 metres. The entrance gate of the acropolis lies on the eastern side, originally Hellenistic period. The city of Metropolis consisted of the buildings and monuments built on the acropolis and in terraced rows. The temple of Ares was located with in the acropolis. During the Roman Period, there was no settlement within the defence walls of the acropolis, the city having spread down the slopes to the level ground below. Because of the wars and bad economic conditions, the acropolis was densely inhabited. The site continued to be throughout the Byzantine period.
Erythrai
It is situated 22 km. south east of Cesme. The earliest findings date to the Bronze Age. Its name is believed to have come from the ancient Greek word “erythros” meaning “red” or “red town”, because the soil around the town is deep red.
Through the ages, Erythrai came under the control of various rulers and was influenced by their particular civilisations. In the 7th century B.C. as an Ionian city, Erythrai was a member of Pan-Ionian League. The city gained fame as a producer of millstones during the period of tyrannical rule. After then Lydians and Persians took control of the city. In 334 B.C. Erythrai was conquered by Alexander the Great to be followed by the kingdom of Pergamon. When this kingdom merged with the Roman Empire, Erythrai was gained the status of independent city.
At this time, Erythrai was renowned for its wines, goats, timber and millstones as well as the female oracles of Cybl and Athenias. The city was famed for being the birth place of Heracleides, the student of Herophilos who was the leader of the school of dogmatic physicians. During the earthquakes and wars, most of the city was damaged in the first century B.C.
During the Byzantium period the city lost its importance.
In 1336, Erythrai came under the rule of the Turks and the name changed as Ildır, its present name.
The remains of the acropolis and theatre were found in the excavations. The traces of a temple at the highest point of the acropolis and city walls were discovered. Other findings are pottery, bowls, stone and clay figures, vases and statues from the 6th and 7th centuries.
Claros
The temple of Apollo at Klaros, famed in Hellenistic times, but more particularly in the Roman period, for its oracle. This holy place had been the centre of an important cult as far back as the 7th and 6th centuries.
The propylon, erected in the 2nd century B. C. It was approximately square in shape and built in the Doric style. The krepidoma was three-stepped. There were four columns on the south side facing the sea, two on the side turned towards the temple. The inner surfaces of the recovered columns are covered with inscriptions carved in the 2nd century A. D. These comprise lists of deputations from Asia Minor, Thrace, and Eastern Europe who had come to consult the oracle of Apollo. In addition, the names of the boys, girls and young people who sang hymns to : the god Apollo are inscribed on the columns.
At a later date a colonnade set aside for business premises was built along the west side of the propylon, whereas on the east side there was a semi-circular exedra, measuring 8 m. across, which has been preserved in toto. On the north-east side can be seen remains of houses of the late Roman period.
The oracle was consulted beneath the cella of the temple. Greek and Roman authorities write that the divine revelations were not made through the medium of a woman, like the Pythia at Delphi, but through a male prophet. The seer would enter a cave or an underground chamber and, having drunk the mysteriously endowed holy water, would utter the prophesy in the form of scanned poetry. The oracle was always consulted at night. The priests and the thespiodos, the composer of the poetry, were appointed for life, whereas the prophets were changed every year. In addition there were one or two scribes. No oracular inscriptions have been discovered at Klaros, but specimens of the Apollonian oracle were found, at Pergamon and Turgutlu, just as they came to light in Dalmatia, Algeria, Sardinia, Rome and even far-off Britain. The four steps on the east face of the temple are covered with inscriptions for their entire length. They consist of lists of delegations coming from distant towns and countries to seek the advice of the god Apollo. Besides the remote places already mentioned, inscriptions originating from the temple also were found at Olbia in southern Russia, and at Sıvas, Amasya, Kayseri and Konya in Anatolia. We have already related above in the chapter on Izmir how, during the time of Alexander, the Smyrnaians, when leaving Bayraklı for Kadifekale sought the advice of the Klarian Apollo.
The remains obtained during the excavations have yielded a wealth of information as to how the functions of the oracle were performed. In the area around the entrance to the temple in the pronaos, there are two corridors of blue marble running parallel to each other, one in the north, the other in the south. These are 0,7m.-wide and 1.80 m.- high. A little farther along, each corridor makes a right-angled bend and continues for some distance as a single passage-way. They later separate again and complete the symmetrical plan begun on the east. The two corridors both led to the adyton, i.e. the innermost shrine. The adyton consisted of two underground vaulted chambers and it lay beneath the cella, where the statue of the seated Apollo was situated. The first of these, i.e., the one on the east, which was at a depth of 6.43 m., was reached by two passageways, one on the right, the other on the left, as has been explained above. There were stone benches for seating purposes in this room, and also the sacred stone of Apollo, i.e., an omphalos (similar to that renowned at Delphi) fashioned from blue stone. This first chamber was a waiting room, and it was occupied by the above- mentioned prophet, the thespiodos and the scribe or scribes. The eastern chamber was separated from the western by a massive wall, 2.70 m. in thickness with a communicating door, 1.70 m. high in the exact centre. There was no other entrance to this second room, which was at a depth of only 4 m.
27 m. east of the temple is a large altar measuring 9 m. x 18.45 m. The expedition in charge of the excavations records that there were two altar slabs here : one for offerings to Apollo, the other sacred to Dionysus.
South of the temple and parallel to it can be seen a small temple of the lonic order and in front of that an altar. This temple must have been sacred to Artemis, because the statue of a goddess found near the altar was dedicated to Artemis of Klaros. Close to this small temple, six votive stones are to be found. These are all of the late period; one of them was set up to Poseidon Themeliouchos, another to the goddess Artemis Pythia of Miletos.
North of the altar attributed to the temple of Apollo, a well reserved stone sundial can be seen , on which is an inscription to the effect that it was donated by the agoranomos in Hellenistic times. A stone with an inscription was set up to the south of the altar, in the name of Cicero's brother, Quintus Tullius Cicero, who was a governor of the province of Asia. Further south, a well-preserved exedra and a stone armchair can be observed. The armrests of the chair are shaped like winged serpents.
Some statues and reliefs of fine quality were brought to light during the excavations and these are now housed in the museum at Izmir. Mention can be made of a particularly beautiful fragment of a Hellenistic frieze and the statue of a man of the archaic period holding a sacrificial calf in both hands.
Teos
THE ANCIENT TOWN OF TEOS
According to tradition, colonists from Minyas in Thessaly, with Athamas as their leader, were the first to settle in Teos, and they were followed by the Athenians. Teos, a member of the Panionion, developed rapidly and soon reached the stage where many of its inhabitants left for Phokaia and Ephesus.
The largest temple to Dionysus in the ancient world was built at Teos (PI. 55, 'Fig. 48). Moreover the lonian actors' guild was first established in Teos towards the end of the 3rd century B. C., and the players gave performances at various places, using Teos as their centre.
The most prominent personality produced by Teos was the famous lyric poet Anacreon, who lived in the 6th century B. C. The other native of Teos was the book-lover Apellikon, who kept Aristotle's library intact by buying it for an exorbitant sum in 100 B. C. Aristotle's books were later transported by Sulla to Rome, where they were published in revised manuscript form by a scholar called Tyrannion.
Teos was situated on the isthmus of a peninsula and possessed one large and one small harbour (Fig. 49). A portion of the city wall in polygonal masonry, dating from the archaic period, is still standing below the acropolis on the south-east side, while a well-preserved section of the Hellenistic city-wall can be seen just west of the enclosing wall of the Dionysus temple The theatre, built in the 2nd century B. C., lies at the south-west end of the acropolis. The auditorium is completely in ruins, whereas the stage, enlarged in Roman times, is in quite a good state of preservation.. The odeion, lying south-east of the theatre and north-east of the sanctuary of Dionysus, is a well-preserved structure of the Roman period. The gymnasium, which was built just north-east of the acropolis, is still largely concealed by overlying earth. In the north part can be seen the ruins of a castle, built by the Turks in the late l5th century. Part of a Roman breakwater is visible south-west of this castle.
Teos was famous for three products: its limestone, its wine cups and its fine cloaks made of Milesian wool.
Notion
Notion occupied an area of 500 x I,000 metres on two flat-topped hills which rose up on the coast and were separated from each other by a narrow neck of land. The town was about 2 km. distant from the Klaros temple. A French archaeological expedition worked here under Charles Picard in 1921. The 4 km.- long city wall was erected in the Hellenistic age. It was built of regular square blocks and fortified with square towers; Roman mortar repair work can be observed on some of the faces. Two gates to the city are still visible: one on the west, the other on the north. Other gates must have existed, however. There was also an entrance with steps at the south-eastern end. The ruins themselves are poorly preserved, but there is a magnificent view from the top of the acropolis to Samos in the south, Kuşadası in the south-east and to Ephesus. A temple encircled with colonnades is to be found on the western hill. Only the foundation of this templum in antis of the Corinthian order is still standing; the measurements of temple were 7,50 x 16 m. the krepidoma ( the platform ) was three-stepped. The frieze was adorned with garlands made from sprays of bay leaves which supported the heads of bulls. The temple was consecrated to Athena Polias and dates from the time of Hadrian. To the east of the temple can be seen the remains of the foundations of an altar measuring 5.30 x 7.72 m. the temple and the altar were surrounded on all four sides by stoas of the Doric order. The exterior measurements of the temenos, including the stoas, were 17.10 x 38.1 5 m. Shops were arranged along the outer faces of the stoas on the east, west and south. The non-axial arrangement of the stoas, the temple and the temenos is reminiscent of the plan of the Athena temenos at Pergamon This arrangement, which was contrary to that customary in Roman art, perhaps arose from the fact that the citizens of Notion in the Roman period wished to conform to the traditional style in which the aforementioned buildings of the Hellenistic period were constructed. The remains of a small temple are to be found to the north-east of the sanctuary of Athena, but it is not known to which god the temple was dedicated. There were originally two agars on the acropolis: one centrally placed the other to the east; however, neither of these has yielded any well-preserved remains. Close by the east side of the agora, which lies in the middle of the acropolis, are the ruins of a bouleuterion. The city theatre occupied an area in the north-east sector of the acropolis, to the north-west of the eastern agora. This small westward-facing theatre, which was erected in Hellenistic times, underwent extensive structural alterations in the Roman era. Although the horseshoe shape was retained, the theatron was rebuilt with an arched diazoma which conformed to the Roman constructional style.
Larissa
Larissa, another Aeolian town, was founded on the hill of basalt rock above the village of Buruncuk about 3 km. to the north of the Hermos (Gediz) river.
This site was excavated by German archaeologists during the campaigns of 1902 and 1932-1934. Among the various finds some pot-sherds going back to the third millennium B.C. have been recognised. Meanwhile, the remains of a temple and a palace on top of the hill, as well as those of the town walls of polygonal and ashlar masonry belong to a period which may be dated from the 7th century to the end of the 4th century B.C. The town declined after the coming of Alexander the Great in Asia Minor, when Pergamon to the north flourished.
An ancient road , the traces of which may be seen on the northern slope of the hill, led up to the main gate which gave access to a temple and then to the palace, or a large house within inner court. Some architectural fragments discovered in the cistern of the latest building may be seen in the İzmir Museum.
On the next hill to the north-east are the remains of a fort, triangular in shape.
Kolophon
One of the most important cities of lonia was Kolophon. The Kolophonians became very wealthy owing to the fertility of their land and their skill as mariners. Kolophon came successively under the dominion of Lydia and of Persia. .First Gyges seized Kolophon some time in the first half of the 7th century and came under Persian rule in the second half of the 6th century. When Alexander the Great came to free Asia Minor from Persian domination, the two cities regained their independence. However, Lycimachos forced the Kolophonians to live in the newly founded city of Ephesus and, since some of them also moved to Notion, Kolophon was reduced to a very feeble state. In spite of this, Kolophon was rebuilt in 281, after Lycimachos' death, and it continued to exist under the administration of the Seleucids and Attalids. During this period Kolophon was known as "archaic Kolophon", i.e., ancient Colophon, and the fame it had lost gravitated to Notion in the south, about 15 km. away. Notion then became known as "New Colophon" or else "Kolophon-on-Sea". Both settlements were in fact prevented from developing by the large new city of Ephesus. The only important remnant of Kolophon, which had known such a glorious past in the 7th and 6th centuries, was the famous temple at Klaros. In Roman times the city was independent and its real centre lay within the acropolis of Notion.
The ruins are not in a very good state of preservation. The city was set on three hills and the intervening valleys; the area enclosed by the triangular city wall is about I km. square. The city wall, which was fortified by a dozen semicircular towers, must have been built before the time of Lycimachos, at the end of the 4th century. The earliest settlement was founded on a hill overlooking the south-west plain, at a height of 200 m. Some of the ruins on the northern slopes still exist today.
Mosque, Church and Synagogues
The most important mosques in the city are Hisar, Yali (Konak), Salepcioglu and Kestane Pazari Mosque. Others in the city include Sadirvan, Basdurak, Kemeralti (built in1812), Faik Pasa, (repaired in 1842), Han Bey, Hatuniye Mosque, Seyh, Fettah, Yali, Ali Aga, Selvili Mescit, Abdullah Efendi and Iki Cesmelik Mosque.
St. Polycarp Church, in Gaziosmanpasa, is the oldest church in Izmir and was lavishly rebuilt in the 19th century by the French. St Polycarp was Smyrna’s first bishop, and when he refused to follow the orders of the Romans to renounce his faith, he was burnt at the stake.
Beaches
The province of Izmir has a large size coastline on the Aegean, with beaches and areas for watersports easily accessible from the city by private or public transport from Uckuyular bus station. Good beaches include Pamucak, Urla, Gulbahce, Cesme, Altinkum, Foca and Dikili.
Yacht Ports
The area south of the Cesme peninsula is a significant part of the yachting routes, and the area between Cesme and Kusadasi is especially popular. Just south of Cesme is Alacati Harbour, which can accommodate 80 yachts and has many facilities. Urla Harbour can accommodate 20 boats with another 175 in the fisherman’s shelter, and 80 in Ozbekkoy harbour.
Thermal Springs
Mentioned in Homer’s epics as Agamemnon Thermal Springs, and in the writings of geographer Strabon, these waters have been used to cure various ailments. Members of Alexander the Great’s army used the spring to heal their wounds, which made their healing powers famous. The hot water mud baths and mineral springs, which contain sodium bicarbonate and chloride, are said to cure upper respiratory inflammation, nephritis, rheumatism, skin diseases and metabolism problems. The resort is 10km west of Izmir, and there is accommodation available at the resort.
Sports Activities
Hunting Tourism : Foreigners can only hunt in parties organised by Turkish travel agencies that have been authorised by the Ministry of Agriculture and Rural Affairs. These agencies provide all the information concerning seasons, authorised zones, permits, weapons and ammunition. A list of agencies can be obtained from the Union of Travel Agencies (TURSAB).
Around Izmir there are wild boar, especially near Cesme and the Karaburun peninsula, and wild goats. Visitors to check which animals are forbidden to be hunted.
Mountaineering : Mountaineering, which is developed recently among youths and students in İzmir region, is dealt and improved as a sport. Balçova Hill and Mount Yamanlar, where Balçova cable railway is present, are the places where mount sports are performed as amateur. Beyond this, Madran Mountains, which at the north part of the mountain chains, which are steeply descending to İzmir bay, are serving very adequate possibilities in connection with mountaineering with 2000 meters exceeding height.
Youth Tourism : There are forestry and youth camps in İzmir, where youth can benefit from.
Skiing Center : There is a natural ski run at the north base of the Bozdag mountain, and the Ski Centre based here is only 90 minutes from Izmir. It is famous for being the highest point and lowest humidity in the Aegean, making it a popular resort for winter sports and for escaping the summer heat. It has a ski school, plus 22 tourist bungalows, 12 hotel rooms, a restaurant, café, bar, shopping centre and health services.
Bozdağ Skiing Facility
Ornithology : Kücük Menderes Basın, in which İzmir is situated, has two significant areas for bird watching; Lake Ildır and Kucuk Menderes Delta.
Art, Culture and Amusement
For many years Izmir has enjoyed its reputation as a cosmopolitan city of culture. The Ataturk Cultural Centre hosts weekend concerts by the Izmir State Symphony Orchestra, and the Izmir State Opera and Ballet perform in an Ottoman art deco building on Milli Kutuphane Caddesi. During the summer there are events at the open-air theatre in the Kulturpark, and mid-June sees the month-long International Izmir festival with many events also in Cesme and Selcuk. The International Film Festival takes place every April, with foreign films shown in original language with subtitles.
Regular nightlife includes a host of bars and nightclubs in the wealthy suburb of Alsansak, with more venues on Birinci Kordon and the surrounding streets. The cinemas around the city centre tend to show blockbuster American films, many of which are dubbed into Turkish.
Geography
Located in Aegean Region İzmir is encircled by Madra Mountains to the north, Kuşadası Bay to the south, Tekne Burnu of Çesme peninsula to the west and Aydın and Manisa to the east. The area of İzmir is 11.973 square kilometres that constitutes 1.5 % of the area of Turkey.
İzmir is composed of mountains that range in the East West direction which lie parallel to each other and vertically join the sea. Bakırçay, Gediz and Küçük Menderes Rivers lie down between those mountains forming plains and valleys. There are mountains ranges in the North-South direction-taking place at the west of the city in Karaburun Peninsula by forming a big projection towards the Aegean Sea. Mountains constitute 60 % of the region, valleys constitute 22 % of the region and the plateaus constitute 18 % of the region.
The height of Bakırçay, Gediz and Küçük Menderes Plains varies between 0-200m above sea level and the height difference between mountains and valleys is about 500-2000m.The major mounts of the region are Mount Madra, Mount Yunt and Mount Yamanlar at the north, Bozdaglar and Mount Nif in the middle, Mount Karabelen and Mount Aydın at the south.
Gediz, Bakırçay, Küçük Menderes Rivers that form the most important river basin of Aegean Region also flow in İzmir.
There is no important lake in İzmir. The major ones are Lake Gölcük, Karagöl, Lake Belevi, and Lake Çakalboğaz.
Mediterranean plantation is dominant in the natural plantation of the region. Scrub flora reach at about 800 m from the sea level in forestless areas. The most common plantation of the region is red pine, black pine, cypress and pine.
History
 The history of Izmir stretches back to around 3000 BC when the Trojans founded the city in Tepekule in the northern suburb of Bayrakli. This was the birthplace of Homer, who was thought to have lived there around the 8th century BC. The Aeolians, the first settlers, were eventually taken over by the Ionians, and then the Lydians destroyed the city around 600BC before a brief recovery following Alexander the Great’s arrival in 334 BC. After his death, Alexander’s generals followed his wishes and re-established Smyrna on Mount Pagos in Kadifekale, and the city then prospered under the Romans. It was destroyed by an earthquake in 178 AD but later reconstructed and became a major commercial port. After the Byzantines, the city had a turbulent time under the Arabs, Seljuks, Crusaders and Mongols, until Mehmet I incorporated it into the Ottoman Empire in 1415. Under Suleyman the Magnificent, Smyrna became a thriving and sophisticated city and a huge trading centre, despite its frequent earthquakes. It was cosmopolitan, with Greek Orthodox, Jews and Muslims, and many languages were spoken amongst locals and visiting traders. Following World War I and the defeat of the Ottoman Empire, Greece was granted a mandate over Izmir and entered the area, coming against the resistance of Ataturk’s nationalists. This resulted in a 3-day bloody battle, during which 70% of the city was burned to the ground and thousands were killed, and the beaten Greeks eventually left on the waiting ships. Ataturk formally took Izmir on 9 September 1922, considered to be the day of victory in the War of Independence and is a national holiday.
Where to Eat
 Izmir’s cuisine has largely been affected by its multicultural history, hence the large variety of food originating from the Aegean, Mediterranean and Anatolian regions. Another factor is the large area of land surrounding the region which grows a rich selection of vegetables. Some of the common dishes found here are tarhana soup (made from dried yoghurt and tomatoes), Izmir meatballs, keskek (boiled wheat with meat) zerde (sweetened rice with saffron) and mucver (made from squash and eggs).
What to Buy
 The busiest shopping area is the Kemeralti Streets, which still retain a 19th century atmosphere of pull-down shutters, thresholds of the doors, low ceilings and old briquettes. On both sides of Anafartalar Caddesi is the lively atmosphere of the street vendors, bronze workers and fishermen, and Fevzipasa Bulvari which is famous for its leather garments. In contrast to the traditional and busy old market, Alsacak has modern boutiques and Cankaya has a mass shopping centre.
Don't Leave Without
 - Visiting Birgi Cakiraga Mansion, Kızlarağası Han, and Asansör, - Stepping into the past in Izmir Archaeology Museum, Ataturk Museum, Kordonboyu and Kemeralti Bazaar. - Tasting Izmir’s famous meatballs in the Asansor Restaurant. - Buying tasty local dried figs and sultanas - Shopping for Ödemis Silk (Pembizar), hand-painted handkerchiefs and Görece blue beads, - Visiting the International Izmir Festival.
|
|
|
Area: 1.376 km² 
The important mosques and churches of Karabük Province would be counted as St. Stefanos Church (Ulu Mosque) located in Safranbolu district, Eski Mosque (Old Mosque)(Gazi Süleyman Paşa Mosque), Köprülü Mehmet Paşa Mosque, Hidayetullah Mosque, Taş Minare Mosque (Stone Minaret Mosque), Dağdelen Mosque, İzzet Mehmet Paşa Mosque, Akçasu Mosque and Küre-i Hadit Mosque located in Eflani District.
Bulak (Mencilis) Cave: This cave is located at the Bulak village. With its 6,5 km length, it is the 4th largest cave of our country. The cave is a natural wonder with its stalagmites, stalactite travertine, small lakes and underground river. 
There is no official museum established in the Karabük province. The "Iron - Steel Museum" belonging to Kardemir, "Ahmet Demirezen Yemenicilik Museum" in Safranbolu and some Safranbolu Houses (Kaymakamlar House, Kileciler House, Karaüzümler House, Mümtazlar Mansion) restored and open to visit by Ministry of Culture, Head Official of the district and private persons are serving as museum. 
The climate of the Karabük Province is partially Black Sea climate but as is located inland, away from the sea the province can not make use of the moisture air of the Black Sea and therefore is mostly under the effect of terrestrial climate. However the severe winter colds and dry summer hot temperature of Central Anatolia is not encountered. The most precipitant months are spring and winter months.
Karabük had become a province during the Republic period. Karabük was formerly a 13 housed quarter of a village of Safranbolu, which had become a district and bounded to Zonguldak Province in 1927. After the establishment of Ankara - Zonguldak railway in 1 June 1934 the station was called with the name of this 13 housed quarter and therefore the name Karabük was officially stated on the maps of T.R. Governmental Railways for the first time. As it was a 13 housed quarter until 1937, after the foundation of the Iron - Steel Factory in 3 April 1937, name of Karabük had been learned countrywide and worldwide.
There are numerous restaurants and entertainment centers in Safranbolu district of Karabük province after the restoration of these traditional Turkish houses. You can listen to live music at the entertainment centers in the evening hours which are intensified at the Bazaar section. Gözleme (pancake), kuyu kebab (well kebab), yayım macaroni , su böreği (water pastry) and house made baklava are the local food and desert varieties. The Safranbolu Turkish delight which is as famous as Safranbolu Houses are sold fresh every time and sold with varieties like with hazelnut, with pistachio nut and with rose. a
The province of Kahramanmaraş is located inside the borders of Eastern Anatolia Region. The province is famous with its peculiar ice cream. Kahramanmaraş has an important tourism potential with its caves, Külliye of Eshab-i Keyf and its plateaus.
Ceyhan Bridge 
Kahramanmaraş Museum 
